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When curating a list of London’s top restaurants, one might foresee well-known high-end establishments. Yet, nestled high among these food giants is a modest salonu situated in a outlying corner of north London.

An Surprise Accolade

The small Turkish spot, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the fourth finest restaurant in the city by a prominent culinary publication. The accolade has left the owners completely shocked.

“I’m utterly shocked,” states the family member, referring to his parents’ hard graft that culminated in their small place earning such a lofty position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Simplicity

The small shop, which started as a basic cafe before its transformation into a sought-after food hotspot, has maintained much of its earlier feel. It seats just more than 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking display, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy place,” comments the owner.

A Signature Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all about the cuisine, and this establishment definitely delivers. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a tender quality.

The meat is then thrown into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. When the flavourful mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to absorb all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is wrapped securely inside.

The wrap is typically eaten with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a strong slap of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A respected food critic described this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For sweets, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, giving it a deeper, nuttier and less sickly taste.

Surpassing the Giants

Notably, this modest restaurant has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the summit of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place stuffed for under £25, comparable meals at luxury establishments can run into significantly more than that price.

The Philosophy of Warmth

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I do not believe in that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is warmth, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is shared by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he were in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a final lesson, to teach them the pitfalls of excess, and to reveal what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Path of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food did not work at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am very happy of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants need years to find their footing, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum would be really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a personal life but her friends would visit to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

An Accomplishment for the Community

This restaurant’s recognition is bound to echo beyond its own doors. “I believe many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the wider significance of this culinary honour.